Ebb and flow

This degree project explores contemporary perspectives of textile craft through the relationship between naturally dyed ikat and handwoven texture. The motifs are inspired by the meetings of water and earth seen from above, where the element of water is represented in the distorted edges and the flow of the ikat patterns across the surface, while the element of earth is conveyed through the choice of colours obtained from natural pigments and dyes as well as the textured surfaces adding tactile dimensionality to the woven form. By introducing woven texture, the work challenges the traditional flat-woven ikats. Handwoven in waffle and plain weave, the textures create a contrast between two- and three-dimensional surfaces through observing the changeable expressions of colours and ikat motifs which are either complemented or enhanced depending on the choice and positioning of the woven bindings. The work explores three types of ikat (warp, weft and double) to demonstrate different ways of preparing the threads and how their placement within the woven structure can be used to achieve specific surface motifs. The outcome of this project is a three-piece collection of naturally dyed handwoven ikat textiles presenting a new approach to ikat with textured expression, aiming to contribute to a slower, more conscious and sustainable approach to the field of contemporary textile design. In addition to the textile collection, comprehensive research into 21 natural dyes resulted in the colour and material library, consisting of 860 colour swatches in total. Each dye was applied to five textile materials in two qualities and modified with three pH substances to further expand the palette possibilities of each dye. This library not only demonstrates the versatility of natural colours and their application in textile design but also offers a solid foundation of the science behind natural dyes and aims to serve as a potential educational tool for students, peers, educators and designers.