Innovative Natural Ingredients-Based Multiple Emulsions: The Effect on Human Skin Moisture, Sebum Content, Pore Size and Pigmentation.

Publisher: MDPI Country of Publication: Switzerland NLM ID: 100964009 Publication Model: Electronic Cited Medium: Internet ISSN: 1420-3049 (Electronic) Linking ISSN: 14203049 NLM ISO Abbreviation: Molecules Subsets: MEDLINE

Original Publication: Basel, Switzerland : MDPI, c1995-

Avena/*chemistry ; Cosmetics/*pharmacology ; Flax/*chemistry ; Phytochemicals/*pharmacology ; Rosmarinus/*chemistry ; Skin/*ultrastructure; Cell Survival/drug effects ; Chemistry, Pharmaceutical ; Cosmetics/chemistry ; Emulsions ; Humans ; Models, Biological ; Phytochemicals/chemistry ; Pigmentation/drug effects ; Sebum/drug effects ; Skin/drug effects ; Surface Properties

The increased interest in natural cosmetics has resulted in a higher market demand for preservative-free products based on herbal ingredients. An innovative W/O/W type emulsions containing herbal extracts were prepared directly; its cation form was induced by an ethanolic rosemary extract and stabilized using weak herbal gels. Due to the wide phytochemical composition of herbal extracts and the presence of alcohol in the emulsion system, which can cause skin irritation, sensitization or dryness when applied topically, the safety of the investigated drug delivery system is necessary. The aim of our study was to estimate the potential of W/O/W emulsions based on natural ingredients for skin irritation and phototoxicity using reconstructed 3D epidermis models in vitro and to evaluate in vivo its effect on human skin moisture, sebum content and pigmentation by biomedical examination using a dermatoscopic camera and corneometer. According to the results obtained after in vitro cell viability test the investigated emulsion was neither irritant nor phototoxic to human skin keratinocytes. W/O/W emulsion did not cause skin dryness in vivo, despite the fact that it contained ethanol. We can conclude that the emulsion is safe for use as a leave-on product due to the positive effect on human skin characteristics or as a semisolid pharmaceutical base where active compounds could be encapsulated.

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Keywords: Avena sativa; Linum usitatissimum; Rosmarinus officinalis; multiple emulsion; pigmentation; pore size; skin moisture

0 (Cosmetics)
0 (Emulsions)
0 (Phytochemicals)

Date Created: 20180614 Date Completed: 20181015 Latest Revision: 20181207

20240513

PMC6100419

10.3390/molecules23061428

29895799